Rajasthani Costumes & Jewelry

Rajasthani Costumes & Jewelry are an integral part of the state’s vibrant cultural identity and traditional heritage. In the subject of Rajasthan Art & Culture, these traditional attires and ornaments reflect the region’s rich history, social values, and skilled craftsmanship. The colourful garments and intricately designed jewellery symbolize the lifestyle, status, and artistic excellence of the people of Rajasthan.

  • The clothing of any region is influenced by its climate, available resources, and culture. The most prominent feature of Rajasthani attire is its ‘colorfulness’ (rang-birangapan).
  • That is why it is said:

“Maru thare des mein upjai teen ratan,
Ik dhola dooji marvan teejo kasoomal rang”

Men’s Attire

Attire

Details

Pagdi (Turban)

  • Worn on the head to protect from the sun, symbol of honor and dignity, hence the saying “Pagdi ki laaj rakhna” (to uphold the honor of the turban)
  • Types – Atapti, Amarshahi, Udaishahi, Khanjarshahi, Shivshahi, Vijayashahi, Shahjahani; Sunar Ante wali, Banjare moti pattedar (maximum variety during Mughal times)
  • Colors according to season –
    • Pink – In spring (vasant mein)
    • Lahariya pagdi – In Shravan month
    • Flower-leaf printed – On Holi
    • Madil pagdi – On Dussehra (multi-colored / zari)
    • Mothda pagdi – On marriage
    • White pagdi – On mourning / sorrow
  • Chhabdar – Person who ties pagdi in Mewar
  • Bandhera – Person who ties pagdi in Jaipur
  • Smallest pagdi – Krishnachand Purohit (Bikaner)
  • Largest pagdi – Avantilal (Baroda)
  • Special –
    • Pagdi – 13 to 15 meters long (smaller than paag)
    • Paag – 14 to 20 meters long
    • Safa – Smaller than paag but wider; one end hangs from head down to below the waist
    • Pencha – With golden zari
    • Potiya – Worn by Bhils in place of pagdi
    • Khanga, Phaliya – Also head coverings

Angarkhi

  • Upper garment worn by men on the upper body
  • Types of Angarkhi – Tansukh, Dutei, Gaba, Gadar, Mirzai, Dondhi, Kano, Dagla, Bugatri, Bandi

Chuga / Choga

  • Garment worn over the Angarkhi (popularized by Sawai Madho Singh)

Achkan

  • Modified and extended form of Angarkhi, reaching up to the thighs

Dhoti

  • Lower garment worn around the waist
  • Tang Dhoti / Dhepara – Tight dhoti worn by tribals (Adivasis)

Pachewde

  • Garment worn over the dhoti in winter for warmth

Angocha

  • Cloth kept on the shoulder

Jama

  • Garment from neck to knees

Dauchi

  • Mainly in Mewar, worn like Jama

Atamsukh

  • Full-length garment worn in winter from top to bottom, similar to Kashmiri pheran

Ghughi

  • Made of wool, worn/draped in winter

Birjas / Breeches

  • Churidar pajama, worn during festivals or horse riding

Kamarband / Patka

  • Tied around the waist, used to hold sword etc.

Pajama / Suthan

  • Loose, reaching below the knees

Women’s Attire

Attire

Details

Upper Body Garments (from waist upwards)

  • Choli – Garment to cover the chest (blouse)
  • Kapdi – Choli tied at the back with strings
  • Angi – Sleeveless choli
  • Kurti – (Sleeveless, worn under kanchli)
  • Kanchli (with sleeves) more prevalent in Marwar
  • Kurta – Upper garment worn on the upper body

Lower Body Garments (worn from waist downwards)

  • Ghaghra / Petticoat – Flared garment made by joining panels (kalis), worn from waist to ankles (famous 80-kali ghaghra of Jaipur)
  • Lehenga – Shorter form of ghaghra (prevalent in Shekhawati)
  • Ghaghri – Garment worn by unmarried girls from waist to knees (shorter form of lehenga)
  • Salwar – Garment worn from waist to feet
  • Sharara – Salwar-like garment worn on the lower body and legs
  • Kachabu – Ghaghra reaching up to knees worn by Bhil women

outer garment

  • Odhni – Garment worn over kurti, kanchli, and ghaghra on the body
  • Chandrakala – Highly valuable / precious odhni
  • Katki (Paawli Bhaant) – Odhni worn by unmarried girls
  • Taran Bhaant – Most popular odhni among tribals (Adivasis)
  • Lahariya – Odhni worn in Shravan month
    • Mothda – Lahariya with wavy stripes like moth beans cutting each other (Jodhpur)
    • ‘Samudra Lahar’ Lahariya – Jaipur
  • Damni – Red-colored odhni of Marwar
  • Pawri – Red-colored odhni given to the bride
  • Other Odhni types – Chunri, Ghank, Pomcha, Jwar Bhaant, Keri Bhaant, Lahar Bhaant

Tribal Attire

AttireDetails
AngochaHead covering garment tied by Bhil men
JamsaiTribal wedding saree with flower-leaf patterns
Nandna / NaandraAncient blue printed cloth worn by tribal women
PhadkaKathodi women’s saree in Marathi style
Potiya / PotyaGarment / safa tied in place of pagdi among tribals
DheparaTight dhoti worn by Bhil men
KhoytuLangoti (loincloth) worn by Bhil men
SinduriRed saree worn by Bhils for marriage
PiriyaYellow lehenga of Bhil bride
KachabuKnee-length ghaghra worn by Bhil women
Lugda (Angocha Saree)White background with red dots/bindi patterns
RejaGarment worn by married Sahariya women
RensaiPrinted lehenga (black background with red-brown dots)
KhusniTight pajama worn by Kanjar women

Literal meaning of jewelry – Ornament, adornment. These ornaments are used to make the body beautiful and attractive.

History

  • Since ancient times, people in Rajasthan have been lovers of beauty.
  • Women of the Kalibangan and Ahar civilizations wore ornaments made of clay beads and shiny stones.
  • In the Shunga period, women used clay ornaments. At that time, ornaments made of ivory were also used.
  • Gradually, with the passage of time, changes came in ornaments and currently ornaments made of metals like gold, silver, copper etc. are in vogue.

Women’s Jewelry

Head Ornaments

OrnamentDetails
ChudamanOrnament known as Sheeshphool
Tika, TikdaOrnament worn on women’s head
Tidi BhalakauSpecial ornament for women’s forehead (lalata / bhaal)
PhoolgoodharSpecial silver (rajat / chandi) ornament woven on the head (sir)
GophanOrnament woven into women’s braided hair (veni / choti)
Bor, BorlaRound-shaped ornament worn on the head. (The moon-shaped part is called Modiya)
RakhdiSymbol of suhag (marital status), head ornament similar to Borla. Considered synonymous with the sun and power. (Gedi, Sari/Nali are related to it)
MavtiOrnament adorned in the parting (maang) of women’s hair
Sohli, SiwtikOrnament adorning the forehead (lalata / maathe)
SheeshphoolFine gold chain-like ornament worn at the back of the head
MemandFamous ornament worn on the head by women
Saildau / SeldauOrnament woven into women’s braided hair (veni / choti)
Tika / TilakOrnament in the shape of a flower worn exactly in front of the rakhdi or borla.
Bindi / TikiTraditional mark applied on the forehead (lalata) by married women (suhagin striyan).
Other Head OrnamentsKachar, Rakhdi, Sarkayaro, Saankli, Tavita, Sinagar Patti, Suwal Lakau, Maang Tika, Maang Phool, Main, Modiyau, Mor Meendali, Gedi, Tilak Mani, Khecha Devad etc.
  • In Veli Krishna Rukmini Ri, Prithviraj Rathore mentioned the tilak hanging on the maang while describing Rukmini’s shringar (adornment).
  • Lalatika – Mentioned in Panini’s sutras
  • In Ajmer Museum, clay yakshini statues from Nagari show tied bor (borla), sheeshphool, and patri ornaments, along with totia (ear ornaments)
  • In Harshacharita, mention of golden plates used to tie kings’ hair, called balapash
  • Eye ornament – Badli
OrnamentDetails
ErangpattoWomen’s ear ornament, also called ‘Jhumrawali Totiya’
OagniyaOrnament worn on the upper part of the ears. Its shape resembles a betel leaf (paan) or peepal leaf
KheentliTraditional ornament worn in women’s ears
JhumkiOrnament made of gold or silver with small bells (ghunghru) attached at the bottom
KarnphoolFlower-shaped (pushpakar) ornament worn on the lower part of the ear, often studded with gems
LaungOrnament made of gold or silver wire in the shape of a clove (laung spice), with a knob-shaped gem on top
MoruvarBeautiful ornament shaped like a peacock (mor), hung from the ear
TotiRound disc-like ornament with a stem at the back to wear in the ear
JhuntanauSpecific ear ornament for women
ChhailkadiSpecial type of chain or ornament worn in the ear
Other Ear OrnamentsJhelo, Kudkali, Kokarun, Gurdao, Chhailkadi, Jhaal, Jhuntanau, Jhuman / Jhumhar / Jhumka, Thoriyau, Dargaliyau / Dugurli, Tadkali, Pattisuraliya, Pasau, Peepalpaan, Bala, Boojhli, Makdi, Latkan, Vedlau, Sandol, Surgawali, Suraliyau, Jamela, Bhachuriya, Murki, Murkiya, Madikadkam (men’s ear ornament)

Nose Ornaments (Naak ke Abhushan)

Ornament

Details

Nath

  • Thick ring made of gold wire worn in the nose.

Bhanwara

  • An ornament similar to nath, mostly worn by women of the Bishnoi community.

Besari

  • A specific nose ornament featuring a dancing peacock motif. (It is also famous due to the ‘Bani-Thani’ paintings of Kishangarh style).

Other Nose Ornaments

  • Bhanwar Kadi, Nath, Bijli, Loong, Nath, Bari, Kaanta, Bhogli, Bulak, Chop, Kokau, Khivan, Nakphool, Nakesar, Ven Vesari, Laung etc.

Teeth Ornaments

Ornament

Details

Rakhan

  • Gold foil/plating (pattar ki khol) applied over the teeth.

Choonp

  • Inserting a small gold nail/stud between the teeth is called ‘Choonp’.

Mekh

  • The gold choonp (stud) inserted in the teeth of both women and men is also called ‘Mekh’.

Other

  • Dhaans, Bwau

Neck Ornaments

Ornament

Details

Baadlo

  • Traditional ornament worn around the neck

Bajatti

  • Ornament prepared by stringing hollow gold beads on a small strip of cloth

Chandrhaar

  • Highly popular necklace among urban women, often consisting of 5 to 7 strands

Jhalrau

  • Necklace made of gold or silver chains with small bells attached

Hansli

  • Circular ornament made of thick metal wire; especially worn by young children to prevent their ‘hansli’ from slipping

Haar

  • Heavy circular gold ornament studded with gems

Kanthi / Chain

  • Fine gold chain (saankal) with a pendant/locket attached

Mangalsutra

  • Necklace-like ornament made of black beads, symbol of suhag (marital status)

Maadaliya

  • Small drum-shaped (madal-like) ornament (like a taweez), often strung on a black thread

Timaniya / Thamanyo

  • Major traditional gold neck ornament worn by women

Bangdi

  • A type of neck ornament

Pachmaaniyau

  • Neck ornament prevalent in the Mewat region

Nakkas

  • Neck ornament in the Mewat region

Thaalau

  • Neck ornament featuring a deity idol

Taantaniyau

  • A neck ornament

Haar (varieties)

  • Chandrhaar, Kanthhaar, Hanshaar, Sohanhaar, Nal Haar, Motihaar, Raanihaar

Maala (varieties)

  • Hamermal, Chandramaala, Mohanmaala, Mahar Maala, Matarmaala

Other Ornaments

  • Doro, Jhalrau, Kanthsari, Nigodar, Nigodari, Tediyau, Aad, Ruchak, Baadli, Baadlo, Hans, Paat Bangdi, Galpatiyau, Galbandh, Takhti, Tagatgai, Thamanyo, Jhalrau, Thusssi, Kanthi, Nakkas, Nimboli, Panchladi, Panchmaaniyau, Bajatti, Patiyau, Tulsi, Hansli, Tevtau, Taweez, Tevatiyau, Taantaniyau, Mangalsutra, Haudal, Batna, Kheenwali, Khoongali, Naangli, Chhediyau, Hamel, Ramnavmi, Champakali, Jugawali, Choki, Aachori, Haalro, Hamel, Haankar etc.

Arm Ornaments

Ornament

Details

Bijayath

  • Traditional ornament worn on the arm

Dodi

  • Special type of bangle worn on the arm

Khanach

  • Ornament worn on the arm by women

Bajubandh / Utarno

  • Belt-like gold ornament tied on the upper arm

Tadda

  • Ornament made by coating a copper rod with gold, having 3 rings (vall / circles)

Anat

  • Ornament made by coating a copper rod with gold, having only 1 ring (vall)

Other Arm Ornaments

  • Bajusosan, Bahusangar, Dodi, Dantakadau, Tadau, Katariyau, Adkani, Baharkhan, Takma, Gajra

Hand / Wrist Ornaments

Ornament

Details

Aamla

  • Made of gold or silver, also worn on the feet

Chood

  • Thick bangle made of gold or silver

Gajra

  • Beautiful ornament strung with beads

Naugri

  • Ornament made from multiple strands of beads

Taanti

  • Religious thread or ornament tied in the name of deities

Laakhini

  • Special lac bangle made for the bride

Bangdidaar

  • Bangle with gold or silver foil/layer work

Chhailkadau

  • Traditional Rajasthani bangle/kada

Gokhru

  • Bangle with small triangular beads (silver gokhru is also called ‘Utrani’)

Other Ornaments

  • Pacheli, Dhaga, Haarpan, Aarat, Choodla, Navratan, Choodiyan, Paatla, Kangan, Poochiya, Dudi, Navgrahi, Punchee (Pauncha), Maathi, Moothiyau, Kankan, Chooda, Bangdi, Choodi, Kada, Hathphool, Khanjari, Aarsi, Choodiyan, Chhailkadau, Dugdi, Sootadau, Sovanpaan, Hathuli, Moonddi, Daamna, Hathpaan, Ballya, Chaap etc.

Finger Ornaments

OrnamentDetails
Binti / MundadCircular ring or ring worn on fingers.
JhotaA special thick ring with three loops (circles).
Patta BintiSilver ring given to the bride by the groom’s side before engagement or marriage ceremony.
PavitriRing made from a mixture of copper and silver, considered auspicious from a religious perspective.
AnguthalauOrnament specifically worn on the thumb.
ArsiA large ring worn on the thumb, often with a mirror embedded.
MursiA traditional ornament worn on fingers
Others Damana [Chain in the middle two fingers], Hathpan [In ring and index fingers] / Hathphool [In all five fingers]/Khaddavano

Waist Ornaments

Ornament

Details

Tagdi

  • Ornament worn around the waist, made of gold or silver.

Chauth

  • Silver ornament resembling a chain, worn by both men and women.

Other

  • Satkau, Mekhla, Merwala, Sinama, Haalam, Mukhalla Dhakdi, Tagdi, Vasan, Kardhani, Kandora, Satka, Kankati, Janjeer, Chauth etc.

Foot Ornaments

OrnamentDetails
JhanjharAnklet-like ornament, famous for its sweet tinkling sound (runjhun ki madhur awaaz)
MakiyauTraditional ornament worn on the feet by women
NewriAnklet-like ornament, often worn along with aamla
Payal / PayjebAlso known as Ramjhol or Shakuntala
Tankaa / TankoRound silver ornament that produces a ‘tank-tank’ sound while walking
LachauSpecial foot ornament made of fine silver wires
RolAnklet with bells (ghunghru-dar) worn on the feet
Other Foot OrnamentsNewar, Peejanni, Payal, Paadsakalika, Teghad, Taanti, Jhanjhar, Sinjni, Kankani, Payal, Shankutala, Payjeb (Ramjhol), Newri, Nupur, Painkoomjaniya, Tankaa, Ghunghru, Aamla, Kada, Langar, Jhanjhar, Toda-Chhoda, Anotpol, Kadlau, Jhankartan, Tankau, Todrau, Todau, Todasat, Makiyau, Masuriyau, Rol, Lachau, Heera Naami, Hirnaamain, Teghad etc.

Foot Ornaments

OrnamentDetails
JhanjharAn anklet-like ornament, which is famous for its sweet jingling sound
MakiyoA traditional ornament worn by women in the feet
NevariAn ornament like an anklet, which is often worn with amulets
Payal / PayjebIt is also known by the name of Ramjhol or Shakuntala
Tanka / TankoA circular silver ornament that produces a ‘tank-tank’ sound while walking
LachhoA special foot ornament made of fine silver wires
RolA bell-studded ornament worn in the feet
OthersNevar, Pijanni, Payal, Padasakalika, Teghad, Taanti, Jhanjhar, Sinjni, Kankani, Payal, Shankutala, Payjeb, (Ramjhol), Nevari, Nupur, Painkoomjaniya, Tanka, Ghungroo, Aawala, Kada, Langar, Jhanjhar, Toda-Chhoda, Anotpol, Kadlo, Jhankartan, Tanko, Todaro, Todo, Todasaat, Makiyo, Masuriyo, Rol, Lachho, Hiranami, Hirnamain, Teghad etc.

Toe Ornaments

OrnamentDetails
Bichhiya / ChootkiA symbol of marital status, which is worn by married women on the toe next to the big toe of the foot
PholriA ring worn by making a flower shape with fine silver wires
PagpaanPagpaan, similar to hathphool, is worn by joining the rings of the toe and fingers of the foot with a chain and hooking it on the upper part of the foot like an anklet on the occasion of marriage
NakhliyoA traditional ornament worn in the toes
DolikiyoA specific ornament for the toe
GolyaBroad and plain silver rings which are worn in the feet
OthersAngoothalo, Goothalo, Gaur, Lachhne, Golya, Chhalla, Beechudi, Jod [Jodhpuri Jod, Hawaijahaj ki Jod]

Men’s Ornaments

OrnamentDetails
ChoodAn ornament worn in the hands in the form of a round bangle. (Others for hands: Moorat, Thala, Taati)
KalangiAn ornament worn on the safa.
BalevdaAn ornament worn around the neck by men. (Others for neck: Chain, Paidal, Mandaliya, Ramnami, Tabeez, Janter, Chauki)
SehraA safa/turban worn by the groom at the time of marriage.
MurkiyanA circular ornament worn by men in the ear. (Others for ear: Loong, Jhale, Baliya, Oganiya, Chhailkadi)
ChaukiAn ornament worn around the neck, on which an image of deities is made.
Rakhan or ChoompThis ornament made of gold or silver is worn on the teeth (for both men and women).
MadikadkamAn ear ornament for men.
MathiBangles worn on the wrist of men. (Others for wrist: Kada, Kankana)
TodarA gold ornament for the feet of men.

Children’s Ornaments

OrnamentDetails
NazariyaAn ornament worn around the neck by tying a gold piece, moong bead, and ratanchaṇ in a red cloth, so that ratyavadi (गाँठगूमडे) do not occur.
Jhanjhariya or PainjaniA thin chain worn in the feet of children, in which small bells are attached.
Kado or KandoolyaBangles worn in both the hands and feet of children.
KudakGold, silver, or zinc wires worn by piercing the ears of small children; through which later loong or bali is worn.
Kanth/HansuliA protective ornament worn around the neck
MurkiKudak (ear ornament) made of solid gold.

Types of Lac Bangles

OrnamentDetails
Padla ChoodaPlain red mutiya chooda (heengal ka chanda / suhag ka chooda). It comes from the in-laws’ side along with bari-padla before the wedding.
Lahariya ChoodaWorn by newly married women in Shravan month. It has diagonal stripes in white, red, blue, and yellow colors.
Chaubanda ChoodaSet of four banded chooda prevalent in Kota-Bundi region.
Panchbanda ChoodaSet of five banded chooda prevalent in Bhilwara, Ajmer, and Jodhpur.
Teen LadaChooda specially worn by women of the Gurjar community.
Paat ka ChoodaSilver paat chooda (barpoi) worn by tribal women in Udaipur region during marriage.
Vanya ChoodaChooda worn by unmarried girls in Udaipur region.
Kateer ka ChoodaA special type of chooda prevalent in Udaipur region.
Dhoopchhaon Kada SetSet of two thick lac bangles, also called Kranti or Rainbow.
Other TypesLaal Patti Chooda, Jalebi ka Chooda, and Cheer ka Chooda.

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